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Franco's
Climb Route 96B just before Ithaca College
Prices: Weeknight specials $9.95, regular menu entrees $8-$15

Posted on: 12/12/99

High up on Route 96B there is a small complex of storefronts that appear to be related, uniform in color and design, including Rogan's Pizza, a gas station (actually part of the pizza parlor, don't you know), a laundromat, and, what do you know, an Italian restaurant (that is, Franco's).

The possible connection between the pizza joint and the Italian eatery is obvious enough, but laundry and gas? Well, you might say that it's because all three are popular hangouts for Ithaca College students and their kindred. And who doesn't need gas? This isn't a review of Rogan's pizza (although good, we recommend the Northeast branch in the "small mall" which isn't as badly run by student help), and we can proudly say that we have not needed the services of the laundromat (nor the gas).

Our first visit to Franco's was on a weekend, when the entree specials are not in effect. Somehow, despite the otherwise spacious location in a complex of three storefronts high up on a lightly populated hill, Franco's managed only to negotiate a good five or six parking spots for itself. Perhaps they expect more pedestrians. We took a seat in the outdoor balcony section, which offers the plus of its panoramic view of the Cayuga Lake basin, and the minus of being elevated about 50 feet above the busy and noisy Route 96.

Nearly all main entrees include "endless" salad and breadsticks. Admittedly, this is not typically the sign of a transcendent meal-to-be, or even an authentic one, but Franco's isn't necessarily aiming that high. That said, both the salad and the breadsticks are good eats, and we actually looked forward to them on our second visit. Score one for the gimmick.

Franco's entrees cover a wide range, from pasta dishes to pizza to continental steak and seafood to Italian baked casseroles such as lasagnas, manicotti, and so on. The menu isn't necessarily innovative, but it is wide ranging. Both the Pine Island Shrimp over linguine and the Eggplant & Manicotti baked casserole were standouts, enough so that we'd be happy to return.

Keep in mind that on weeknights (except Friday) Franco's offers a $9.95 special which covers many of the entrees on the menu. And yes, that does include the salad and 'sticks. Ultimately, this isn't the kind of Italian that's going to remind you of the "old neighborhood", but -- especially if you drop by on a weeknight -- you can expect a solid base hit for a good value. Think "less tacky than the Olive Garden", but not exactly "Big Night" (which, if you have not yet seen, you should immediately dart out to rent, and purchase a VCR if you must do so).

Some might debate our estimation of price and value in considering the worth of an eating establishment. Those who would take such umbrage are probably independently wealthy and should proceed to send donations to Ithaca Eats. Wire transfers accepted.


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